KAFFS 1
In 2014, Joe and I dreamed up the idea of a website documenting some of the real ‘kaffs’ of Central London that we were well acquainted with, had used for many years, and wanted to use photos and interviews with the owners and workers towards that document.
A ‘kaff’ in Britain is somewhat like a working man’s diner in the US, like a Caffè in Italy, and like a Café in France, but the names and comparisons are not exact. The key element is fresh and freshly made food and drink served fast, often ordering at the counter.
A British ‘kaff’ (café mispronounced probably on purpose) covers a wide range, and at the poorest end are sometimes called greasy spoons, sometimes accurately, but not usually in my experience. Even the poorest are normally extremely clean, and give you good fresh fare.
They normally open very early to enable working people to go to them before work, and typically shut by 5 or 6 when working people will be going home for their meal.
As Italians became the dominant owner/cooks/servers in independent British fast food places for working people, variations began to appear in the food and drink served.
By the 1960s when I first used them, kaffs in London served up some Continental foods as well as staple British food and drink.
Some stayed open all night to serve workers on night shifts, eg Fleet Street newspaper printers, while others stayed open very late to accommodate all night revellers, eg Bar Italia in Soho is still open until 4am. The 24 Hour Polo Bar in Bishopsgate still caters to the many shift workers in the City of London. But these seem to be the last of all night kaffs?
For Joe and me, the kaff and the continental equivalents, were an important resource to keep us sane. Joe as a Londoner growing up, and me and my brothers and sister as our Dad dragged us across Europe working when he could, and mainly living in hotels and eating in cafes, bars, etc. The kaff is home from home for Brits during the day, as the pub is at night.
In Britain from the 1970s, a large campaign organisation emerged fighting for the preservation of real ale and beer in pubs Campaign for Real Ale – CAMRA. It won, many pubs now stock real ale, and CAMRA is still alive and well.
We thought of initially a List of kaffs – JoMo’s List. And then CARE (CAmpaign for Real Eating).
JoMo’s List
This list has become shorter and shorter since 2014 – it was over 50, and that was an extremely short list then. There may be newer kaffs sprung up since we were able to walk the streets of London, but here is what we have left in terms of kaffs either one of us or both of us used and depended on. Several are restaurants (eg Capitan Corelli, Goodfare), and one is (French Patisserie/Café)
Short List of London Cafes
Capitan Corelli, Battersea
Goodfare Restaurant, Camden Town,
Bar Bruno, Soho
Cafe Tropea (Russell Square
Bar Italia, Soho
Maison Bertaux, Soho
Café Diana, Notting Hill Gate
Scotti’s Snack Bar, 38 Clerkenwell Green, next to Marx Library
Good Fare Restaurant, Camden Town
Italia Uno, 91 Charlotte Street
Le Signore, 4 Palace Street, Victoria
Polo 24 Hour Bar, Bishopsgate
Spreads, 15A Pall Mall
(Sid’s) Conduit Coffee House, Lambs Conduit Street
Franks Coffee House, Great Titchfield Street
Victoria Cafe, Terminus Place, Victoria Station
TO BE CONTINUED